Brought to you by Sur La Table.

Brought to you by Sur La Table.

More photos by Glenn Fleishman

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1/2 tsp. table salt
5 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more to taste

In a small bowl, combine the mustard, vinegar, and salt. Whisk to blend well. Add the olive oil, and whisk vigorously to emulsify. Taste, and adjust as needed. Depending on your vinegar, you may need more oil. I often add another tablespoon, but it varies. This is a more acidic dressing than some, but it shouldn't hit you over the head with vinegar.

Variations: Use white wine vinegar instead of red wine vinegar. Or use a mixture of lemon juice and Champagne vinegar. Or add some minced shallot, taking care to let them soak in the vinegar for 15 to 30 minutes before adding the other ingredients.

MOLLY'S MUSTARDS OF CHOICE

Roland Extra Strong Dijon Mustard
Edmond Fallot Dijon Mustard
Beaufor Extra Strong Dijon Mustard

The three are essentially interchangeable. I notice very little difference in flavor, if any, among them.

MATTHEW'S MISO VINAIGRETTE

2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon white miso
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon canola oil

Whisk ingredients together well. Taste and adjust as necessary.

THAI SALAD DRESSING

2 Tbsp. Thai fish sauce
2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 Tbsp. palm sugar or golden brown sugar
1 large garlic clove
Thai green chiles to taste
pinch of salt

Smash the garlic, chiles, and salt in a mortar and pestle. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Adjust to taste.

PAUL NEWMAN'S BARE CHEST

When: July 29, 2010, 5:30pm
Where: Queen Anne Farmers Market, W Crockett & Queen Anne Ave N, Seattle
Why: Because you can watch us make total fools of ourselves in public.

Our comedy is certified organic, although some of our jokes should really be destroyed by unnatural means.

If you can't get fresh sour cherries, jarred or canned sour cherries (not pie filling!) make a fine substitute; the jarred morello cherries from Trader Joe's are our favorites.

2 pounds sour cherries, stemmed and pitted, or 24 ounces canned or jarred cherries, drained
1 quart vanilla ice cream

Place the cherries in a blender or food processor (reserving a few for garnish) and blend into a smooth puree. Add the ice cream and continue to blend until smooth, rich, and pink. Pour into four glasses, garnish with fresh cherries, and serve.

Yield: 4 12-ounce shakes

SWEET PICKLED CHERRIES
Dana Cree

Makes about 4 cups

These cherries are wonderful with panna cotta, vanilla ice cream, cheesecake, or foie gras. Dried hibiscus can be found in the bulk section at natural foods stores, at Latin markets, and by mail order.

2 cups water
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 star anise
zest and juice of 1 large lemon
2 tablespoons dried hibiscus flowers
1 cinnamon stick
2 pounds fresh sour cherries, stemmed and pitted, or two 24-ounce jars sour cherries, drained

In a medium saucepan, bring water, sugar, balsamic vinegar, star anise, lemon zest, lemon juice, hibiscus, and cinnamon stick to a boil. Boil 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until mixture is fragrant and sugar is fully dissolved. Place cherries in a large bowl. Strain the pickling liquid onto the cherries. Refrigerate at least 4 hours and up to a week.

YAKI UDON

1 package frozen udon noodles (9 ounces)
half bunch bok choy (about 6 ounces)
4 medium asparagus spears
1/2 cup diced smoked ham
1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as canola
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon mirin
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar

1. Boil a pot of water. While it's boiling, prep the vegetables. Cut off the woody stems of the asparagus and cut the remainder into 1-inch lengths. Halve the bok choy stems lengthwise and cut into 1/2-inch dice. Slice the bok choy leaves crosswise into 1/2-inch wide strips.

2. Boil the noodles just long enough to thaw and separate, about 1 minute. Drain and rinse under cold water.

3. Heat the oil in a skillet. Add the ham, bok choy stems, and asparagus. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the ham is browned and the bok choy stems are translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the bok choy leaves and cook an additional minute. Add the noodles, soy sauce, mirin, and rice vinegar, and cook until the sauce is nearly completely absorbed, about 1 minute.

Yield: 2 servings

3 cups sliced rhubarb (from 6-7 stalks)
1 scant cup sugar
1 1/2 cups water
3 Tbsp. orange liqueur, such as Cointreau
2 Tbsp. framboise or cassis (optional)
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon or lime juice
3 Tbsp. heavy cream

Put the rhubarb in a medium saucepan. Add the sugar, 1/2 cup water, orange liqueur, and framboise. Simmer until the rhubarb is tender and almost completely falling apart, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool slightly.

Transfer the rhubarb and its cooking liquid to a food processor. Add the lemon or lime juice and cream, and process until smooth. Taste, and adjust with more lemon or lime juice or sugar as needed. Add the remaining 1 cup water, and process to incorporate.

Chill overnight; then freeze in an ice cream maker.

Note: This sherbet freezes very hard, so be sure to let it soften before trying to scoop and serve it.

Brought to you by Sur La Table.

Onigiri (Omusubi) revisited: An easier way to make Japanese rice balls, step by step

and her rice ball FAQ.

Here's some of that Korean seaweed we were grooving on (this is a different brand and possibly a different size, but the same stuff).

Finally, here's a video of Molly making a rice ball. It's that easy!

Spilled Milk: Molly makes a rice ball from Matthew Amster-Burton on Vimeo.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves
1 pound frozen peas (preferably not petite peas)
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons butter
salt and pepper

In a saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mint and peas and cook until the peas begin to lose their frosty tinge. Add the water, cover, and simmer until the peas are army green, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a food processor, add the butter and salt and pepper to taste, and process to just shy of smooth. Serve hot.

Yield: 4 servings

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For the greens:
2 tablespoons lard or other fat
1 medium onion, diced
1 bunch kale or collard greens
1 cup wet-cured ham (such as Hormel Cure 81), diced
1 cup water
salt and pepper

1. Prepare the greens. Remove the stems and slice the leaves into 1/2-inch strips.

2. Heat the lard in a stockpot over medium-high. Add the onion and cook until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the greens and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until they begin to wilt.

3. Add the water and ham and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until the greens are very tender, about 1 hour (or maybe more for especially thick collards). Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve atop cheesy polenta.

For the cheesy grits:
1 cup polenta or quick (not instant) grits
4 cups water
3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar

Preheat oven to 350°F. Stir together the polenta, water, salt, and 1 tablespoon butter in a medium saucepan. Place the uncovered saucepan in the oven and bake 45 minutes. Stir well and bake another 5 to 15 minutes, or until grits reach desired texture. Stir in the remaining butter and cheese, check for salt, and serve in big bowls, topped with greens and ham.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you're using an electric stove, high heat is too high; try medium-high. In any case, don't step away from the pot while frying.

2 1/2 lbs Yukon Gold Potatoes (about 6 medium), scrubbed, dried, sides squared off, and cut lengthwise in 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch batons
6 cups peanut oil
1/4 cup bacon fat, strained, optional
Kosher Salt

1. Combine potatoes, oil, and bacon fat (if using) in large Dutch oven. Cook over high heat until oil has reached rolling boil, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, without stirring, until potatoes are limp but exteriors are beginning to firm, about 15 minutes.

2. Using tongs, stir potatoes, gently scraping up any that stick, and continue to cook, stirring ocacasionally, until golden and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Using skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer fries to thick paper bag or paper towels. Season with salt and serve immediately.

12 to 15 baby red or yellow potatoes, 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup olive oil

1. In a saucepan, boil the potatoes with in salted water. Simmer until cooked through, 30 to 35 minutes total. Drain and place the potatoes on a dishtowel.

2. Using a folded second dishtowel, smash each potato to about a half-inch thick.

3. Line a half-sheet pan with foil and then parchment. Put the smashed potatoes on the parchment and let cool completely.

4. Preheat oven to 450°F. Sprinkle potatoes with salt and drizzle with olive oil, lifting each potato to get the oil underneath. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, flipping them halfway through the baking time.

Yield: Oh, about two servings.

Triscuits (regular flavor)
Dijon mustard
Canned sardines, drained and coarsely chopped

Spread a Triscuit with a generous smear of mustard. Pile some sardines on top. Repeat, and serve.

KYOTO MISO-MACKEREL HOT POT
Adapted from Japanese Hot Pots: Comforting One-Pot Meals, by Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat

2 mackerel fillets (about one pound)
salt
1/4 pound daikon, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
2 cups dashi
2 cups water
1/2 cup sake
1/2 cup white miso (or saikyo miso, if you can find it)
1/2 pound napa cabbage, sliced
1/2 pound firm tofu, cut into four pieces
4 ounces oyster mushrooms, trimmed and pulled apart
1/2 pound spinach, stemmed
4 teaspoons grated ginger
sliced scallions (optional)

1. Salt the mackerel fillets generously on both sides and place on a plate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

2. Simmer the daikon in a small pan of water until tender, about 5 minutes. Rinse under cold water and set aside.

3. Bring a large pan of water to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Slice the mackerel into 1-inch squares. Dip the fish, a few pieces at a time, into the simmering water for 15 seconds to blanch, then transfer to the cold water. When you've blanched all the fish, drain it and dry on paper towels.

4. Combine the dashi, 2 cups water, sake, and miso in a bowl and whisk to blend.

5. Place the cabbage on the bottom of a large stockpot. Add the tofu, daikon, and oyster mushrooms, arranging each ingredient in a neat bunch. Pour in the broth.

6. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Uncover, reduce heat to medium-low, and add the mackerel in a separate pile. Simmer ten minutes, reducing heat further if necessary to maintain a low simmer.

7. Serve in individual bowls, garnished with grated ginger and optional scallions.

Yield: 4 servings

COLCANNON (Mashed Potatoes with Cabbage)
Adapted from Gourmet, April 1993

1 1/4 lb. russet potatoes (about 1 1/2 to 2 large potatoes)
About 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
3 cups thinly sliced cabbage (about 1/4 of a large cabbage, cored)
Salt
1/2 cup milk, scalded

Peel the potatoes, and cut them into 1-inch pieces. Put the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with salted water, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until tender. While the potatoes are simmering, melt about 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cabbage, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage begins to soften. Reduce the heat to medium or medium-low, cover the skillet, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is very tender. When the potatoes are ready, drain them in a colander, and then turn them into a bowl. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the potatoes, allow to melt for a minute or two, and then mash. Stir in the milk and the cabbage, and season to taste.

Yield: 2 to 3 servings

CORNED BEEF
Adapted from Cook's Illustrated, March 1997

Order point cut brisket from a butcher. Don and Joe's Meats at Pike Place Market, had it in stock and charged $4/pound. Our supermarket butcher couldn't get it, but had flat cut in stock, which is also good; if you can only get flat cut, definitely still make the recipe.

1/2 cup kosher salt
1 tablespoon black peppercorns, cracked
3/4 tablespoon ground allspice
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1/2 tablespoon paprika
2 bay leaves, crumbled
1 fresh beef brisket (4 to 6 pounds), preferably point cut, trimmed of excess fat, patted dry

1. Mix salt and seasonings in small bowl. Spear brisket about 30 times per side with meat fork or metal skewer. Rub each side (including the ends) evenly with salt mixture; place in 2-gallon Ziploc bag, forcing out as much air as possible.

2. Place the bagged beef in a half-sheet pan to catch any leaks and place on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. Refrigerate 7 days, turning once a day. (The original recipe calls for the beef to be weighted; I haven't bothered to do this and it comes out fine.)

3. Remove the meat from the bag and soak the meat in cold water for a couple of hours, changing water several times.

4. Preheat oven to 275°F. Place the meat in a large pot (probably the same one you used to soak it) and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, partially cover, and put the pot in the oven. Cook 3 to 5 hours, or until meat is very tender.

5. If you have the patience, cool the meat completely in the braising liquid before slicing. Otherwise, eat immediately.

2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 pound scallions (about 5 bunches, or 3 dozen)
1/2 cup water
1 1/2 teaspoons coarsely chopped fresh tarragon or 1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley
coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 lemon

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Using about 1 1/2 teaspoons of butter, generously butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

2. Trim the root ends and 1 1/2 inches off the green tops of the scallions. Arrange half of the scallions in the baking dish so the bulb ends are lined up at one end and the greens are toward the middle. Place the other half of the scallions in the opposite direction, so you end up with a double layer of scallion greens across the center of the dish and a single layer of bulbs and each end of the dish.

3. The braise: Pour the water into the dish. Cut the remaining butter into slivers and dot it over the top of the scallions. Season with the tarragon or parsley, salt, and pepper. Cover the dish tightly with foil, and slide onto the middle rack in the oven. Braise undisturbed until fragrant and tender, 35 to 40 minutes.

4. The finish: Remove the foil from the dish, and increase the oven heat to 450 degrees. Roast the scallions for 10 minutes, then shake the pan back and forth to coat the scallions with the glaze that will have formed. Continue roasting until the liquid evaporates and the edges of the scallions are beginning to brown, another 5 minutes or so. Squeeze over a few drops of lemon juice to taste, and serve hot or warm.

Yield: Two servings, at the most.

CARNITA SALAD

For the carnitas:

3 pounds boneless pork shoulder or country-style ribs, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 large onion, diced
1 cup chicken broth
1/4 cup tequila
2 tablespoons lime juice, from one lime
salt to taste

1. Combine all the ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, 2 to 3 hours until the meat is tender, the onions have melted into the stew, and the broth is evaporated. (If necessary, turn up the heat near the end of cooking to evaporate the rest of the broth.) At this point, you may optionally refrigerate the carnitas before continuing. They will keep several days in the fridge.

2. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the carnitas and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are heated through and well-browned, even burnt or crispy in places, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately with suggested accompaniments.

For the salad:

1/2 medium head napa cabbage, shredded
juice of 1/2 lime
Frank's Red Hot Xtra Hot Sauce or other hot sauce of your choice

Stir together lime juice and hot sauce to taste. Toss the cabbage with the lime juice mixture and divide into two bowls. Top each bowl with about 1/2 cup hot carnitas and serve.

Yield: Two servings, with lots of carnitas left over for tacos

Mucuna pruriens, noted aphrodisiac

• Vanilla Honey Sesame Milkshake
• Lemon Cheeseshake

Matthew's Hardcore Chocolate Malt

1-1/4 cups (6 ounces) premium chocolate ice cream (such as Green and Black's Organic), left out for a few minutes to soften
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup (1 ounce) malt powder

Place ice cream, milk, and malt powder in a blender and blend until smooth. An immersion blender also works well. Pour into glasses and serve immediately. Malts taste better through a bendy straw.

Yield: About 1-1/2 cups, enough for an adult and a small child to share, or you can pretend you have a small child but then just drink it all yourself.

Molly's Oklahoma City Chocolate Malt

Vanilla ice cream of your choice
Milk
Hershey's syrup
Carnation malted milk powder

Put three scoops of ice cream in the jar of a blender. Allow to soften for about 5 minutes. Add a splash of milk, some Hershey's syrup--I buy mine in a squeeze bottle, and I'd start with maybe a 3-second squeeze?--and two heaping spoonfuls of malt powder. Blend to mix. If it's too thick, add a bit more milk. Taste, and adjust syrup and malt powder to taste.

Yield: 1 generous serving, or 2 restrained servings

For salad:
1 medium butternut squash (about 2 to 2-1/2 lb.), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces
1 medium garlic clove, pressed
1/2 tsp. ground allspice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Salt
One 15-ounce can chickpeas (preferably Goya, Bush's, or Progresso brand), drained and rinsed
1/4 medium red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves

For tahini sauce:
1 medium garlic clove, finely minced with a pinch of salt
3-1/2 Tbsp. lemon juice
3 Tbsp. well-stirred tahini
2 Tbsp. water
2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. In a large bowl, combine the butternut squash, garlic, allspice, olive oil, and a good pinch or two of salt. Using a large spoon or your hands, toss until the squash pieces are evenly coated. Turn them out onto a baking sheet, and bake for 15 to 25 minutes, or until soft. Remove from the oven and cool.

3. Meanwhile, make the tahini sauce. In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic and lemon juice. Add the tahini, and whisk to blend. Add the water and olive oil, whisk well, and taste for seasoning. The sauce should have plenty of nutty tahini flavor, but also a little kick of lemon. If the your tahini is at all bitter, or if the lemon is too much, a little additional oil should correct it.

4. To assemble the salad, combine the squash, chickpeas, onion, and cilantro in a mixing bowl. Add tahini sauce to taste, and toss gently. Serve.

A local blogger's sweet success

Orangette exists as one of the zestiest food blogs around. Named last year by the Times of London as the number one food blog of 2009, creator Molly Wizenberg continues to dominate the Internet food scene from her home in Ballard.

Dominating the Internet food scene is no easy task. It requires a supercomputer with lots of wires coming out the top, various bunsen burners and beakers, and an evil laugh. And it requires a podcast: Spilled Milk is featured in the article! (P.S.: Despite what the article says, there is only one New York Times bestselling author associated with this show, and it's not Matthew. It's our mentor and executive producer, Dan Brown.)

Next order of business: if you look over in the sidebar, there's a "share on Facebook" button. This will let you post a link to the show as a Facebook status update. We also have a Facebook page where you can become a fan:

Spilled Milk on Facebook

Have you noticed that if you say "Facebook" a bunch of times, it doesn't sound like a word? Oh, wait, it's not. But become our fan anyway, because if we hit one thousand fans, executive producer Dan Brown will let us out of our subterranean offices to frolic, briefly, in the crisp winter air, like in that Ray Bradbury story.

Our next episode will be out Thursday, January 21, 2010. You will be thrilled and horrified to learn that Episode 2 is nearly twice as long as Episode 1, and it features a harrowing reenactment of the French revolution.

4 cups cooked Japanese-style (calrose) rice, cooled and chilled in refrigerator
4 strips bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces
2 cups Napa cabbage kimchi, the riper the better, diced
1 tablespoon butter, plus more for frying eggs
2 teaspoons sesame oil
salt and pepper
sesame seeds, for garnish
sliced scallions, white and green parts, for garnish

4 eggs

1. Cook the bacon in a large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add the kimchi and cook several minutes.

2. Raise the heat to high, add the rice and stir-fry several minutes, until rice is beginning to brown.

3. Meanwhile, fry the eggs in butter, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Stir butter and sesame oil into fried rice. Season with salt to taste. Divide into two bowls and top each with two fried eggs. Garnish with scallions and sesame seeds.